1990 k10 blazer 350 auto 4x4 in MD 2000 0b0
09-29-2009, 07:26 PM
#1
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (56)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: calvert county
Posts: 879
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1990 k10 blazer 350 auto 4x4 in MD 2000 0b0
I'm gonna lay it out for you as if I were th mechanic looking the car over, and tell you what it needs, and what I'd recommend.
First off, the tires are dry rotted. You could drive it, but there's a fair chance they'll pop and leave you stranded.
-the front brakes are good. there's new pads on there and the rotors are still ok.
-the rear drums are ok, and the rear shoes have about 4-5 mm left on them, it'll need rear shoes in like 10k miles. I bought em and they're in the trunk. at the time you do the tires I'd recomment all new lug nuts, as the last time I took them off one of them came apart and I had to drill it out. pissed me off. lug nuts sets are maybe 20 bucks. spend the money.
-The windshield was cracked so I replaced it.
-The trans leaked so I pulled the transfer case off and resealed the flange where it bolts to the 700r4 transmission, then replaced the rear seal at the transfer case where the driveshaft seats.
-The small driveshaft between the front diff and the transfer case is missing. I was worried so I took apart the front diff and checked the backlash and inspected the spider gears. everything looked good so I resealed it and filled it with fresh 90 weight gear oil. If I were you I'd buy a set of superwinch or warn locking hubs, they're maybe 80 bucks a set and are bulletproof, the auto hubs that came stock with these trucks are weak and for real off roading you can't beat manual hubs.
-it has the usual rust in the quarter panels and consequently wouldn't pass inspection without a patch. luckily in a few months it'll be 20 years old and you can title it as historic and not need an inspection.
-The starter occasionally wouldn't jump out so I replaced the solenoid and cleaned the battery terminals to reduce resistance and it seemed to behave itself.
as a matter of habit when I buy a car, I changed the engine oil, trans oil, and both differential oils.
The truck runs and drives fine, and the only complain I had is that the fuel sending unit is off, when it reads a quarter tank it's really empty.
The truck is a 1990. has 198k on the odometer, 350 V8 with throttle body injection. 4 speed 700R4 Automatic transmission. has new speakers but no head unit. AC works and I charged it. Heat works great. There's a two inch body lift and 35 inch tires on it currently.
Power windows and doors. the I'd recommend replacing the passenger door switches since they require jiggling to get em to work but they're cheap.
Included with the truck are rear brake shoes, a set of spark plugs and wires, and a distributor cap and rotor.
picture will be posted later its my buddies truck located in rockville pm me if interested and I will send you his number looking for a quick sale so bring all offers
dog and girl go with the truck
First off, the tires are dry rotted. You could drive it, but there's a fair chance they'll pop and leave you stranded.
-the front brakes are good. there's new pads on there and the rotors are still ok.
-the rear drums are ok, and the rear shoes have about 4-5 mm left on them, it'll need rear shoes in like 10k miles. I bought em and they're in the trunk. at the time you do the tires I'd recomment all new lug nuts, as the last time I took them off one of them came apart and I had to drill it out. pissed me off. lug nuts sets are maybe 20 bucks. spend the money.
-The windshield was cracked so I replaced it.
-The trans leaked so I pulled the transfer case off and resealed the flange where it bolts to the 700r4 transmission, then replaced the rear seal at the transfer case where the driveshaft seats.
-The small driveshaft between the front diff and the transfer case is missing. I was worried so I took apart the front diff and checked the backlash and inspected the spider gears. everything looked good so I resealed it and filled it with fresh 90 weight gear oil. If I were you I'd buy a set of superwinch or warn locking hubs, they're maybe 80 bucks a set and are bulletproof, the auto hubs that came stock with these trucks are weak and for real off roading you can't beat manual hubs.
-it has the usual rust in the quarter panels and consequently wouldn't pass inspection without a patch. luckily in a few months it'll be 20 years old and you can title it as historic and not need an inspection.
-The starter occasionally wouldn't jump out so I replaced the solenoid and cleaned the battery terminals to reduce resistance and it seemed to behave itself.
as a matter of habit when I buy a car, I changed the engine oil, trans oil, and both differential oils.
The truck runs and drives fine, and the only complain I had is that the fuel sending unit is off, when it reads a quarter tank it's really empty.
The truck is a 1990. has 198k on the odometer, 350 V8 with throttle body injection. 4 speed 700R4 Automatic transmission. has new speakers but no head unit. AC works and I charged it. Heat works great. There's a two inch body lift and 35 inch tires on it currently.
Power windows and doors. the I'd recommend replacing the passenger door switches since they require jiggling to get em to work but they're cheap.
Included with the truck are rear brake shoes, a set of spark plugs and wires, and a distributor cap and rotor.
picture will be posted later its my buddies truck located in rockville pm me if interested and I will send you his number looking for a quick sale so bring all offers
dog and girl go with the truck
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ARC
GMT 800 & Older GM General Discussion
57
02-21-2022 10:54 AM
grantpo
GM Drivetrain & Suspension
1
07-15-2015 12:21 PM
