6.0 HP LTFT tune
#1
6.0 HP LTFT tune
So I have an 02 LQ9 with a 228/228 .588 with 114LSA in a 2000 silverado and I have been doing my LTFT learn and copy from the scanner to pasting in the editor graph... Well you add them right? Because after doing it 4-5 times some of my numbers were leveling out but others were still in the 10-14 range and when I'm pasting into the editor some of my #s are going into the 160 range, the engine is now drinking gas like a MO FO and not running right when you leave from a dead stop, what am I doing wrong? I reset my LTFT in the scanner and then drive and try to hit as many cells as I can under 4000 and then save the graph then copy and paste into the editor main VE table and save it then write it to the vehicle computer and repeat the process... Am I doing this right? My MAF is set to 0 HTZ and the 101 102 103 error codes are set to do not report the error ( option 4 I think) ... Any help would be GREATLY appreciated
Last edited by 2Slow_00; 04-27-2013 at 07:22 PM.
#2
I always unhook the wires to the MAF just to be certain. Lots of people say you dont need to, but I like to take that extra step to be certain. Do you have a wideband? I like to tune with a wideband much better than the fuel trim method.
#4
X2 on the wideband... it is fine to check the trims after a tune to make sure the narrow bands are working properly, but tuning is best done in open loop with a wideband...
If you have exhaust leaks, they cause the narrow bands to think you are lean and add fuel. By using those values, you will continue to add uneeded fuel and compound the problem - is it possible you might have that problem?
If you have exhaust leaks, they cause the narrow bands to think you are lean and add fuel. By using those values, you will continue to add uneeded fuel and compound the problem - is it possible you might have that problem?
#5
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From: Warr Acres, OK
You are doing a lot of things wrong. You have to set the MAF codes to MIL on 1st error. 00 cals have a secondary VE they run on in SD. Are you changing it? They also run on the Low Octane Spark table in SD. And you don't add, you paste special multiply by % or 1/2 percent.
#7
I do have a broken exaust bolt head on the rear driver cylinder ... a 47 mile drive took a 1/4 tank or more WTF!!! soo..
I started over with the original tune, turned the MAF to 0 htz and set 101 102 and 103 error codes to the MIL on 1st error. Drove about 20 miles hitting as many cells as I could up to 4000. I copied and pasted, using the multiply by %, the STFT into the Main VE Primary table. I will do it again tomorrow but, should I change the Main VE Secondary table?
What about the spark tables?
What SD (speed density) need to be done at the same time?
I always run 93 octane
Im new at this and only had HP for 3 days, I have read the stickies and been reading on HP forums before I purchased but this is a Big learning curve and I greatly appreciate all of yalls help and constructive criticism
I started over with the original tune, turned the MAF to 0 htz and set 101 102 and 103 error codes to the MIL on 1st error. Drove about 20 miles hitting as many cells as I could up to 4000. I copied and pasted, using the multiply by %, the STFT into the Main VE Primary table. I will do it again tomorrow but, should I change the Main VE Secondary table?
What about the spark tables?
What SD (speed density) need to be done at the same time?
I always run 93 octane
Im new at this and only had HP for 3 days, I have read the stickies and been reading on HP forums before I purchased but this is a Big learning curve and I greatly appreciate all of yalls help and constructive criticism
Last edited by 2Slow_00; 04-29-2013 at 12:24 AM.
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#8
I do have a broken exaust bolt head on the rear driver cylinder
I started over with the original tune, turned the MAF to 0 htz and set 101 102 and 103 error codes to the MIL on 1st error. Drove about 20 miles hitting as many cells as I could up to 4000. I copied and pasted, using the multiply by %, the STFT into the Main VE Primary table. I will do it again tomorrow but, should I change the Main VE Secondary table?
What about the spark tables?
What is SD?
I always run 93 octane
Im new at this and only had HP for 3 days, I have read the stickies and been reading on HP forums before I purchased but this is a Big learning curve and I greatly appreciate all of yalls help and constructive criticism
I started over with the original tune, turned the MAF to 0 htz and set 101 102 and 103 error codes to the MIL on 1st error. Drove about 20 miles hitting as many cells as I could up to 4000. I copied and pasted, using the multiply by %, the STFT into the Main VE Primary table. I will do it again tomorrow but, should I change the Main VE Secondary table?
What about the spark tables?
What is SD?
I always run 93 octane
Im new at this and only had HP for 3 days, I have read the stickies and been reading on HP forums before I purchased but this is a Big learning curve and I greatly appreciate all of yalls help and constructive criticism
Spark tables are a bit more difficult and should be approached once MAF and VE is calibrated. You should actually mess with Power enrichment once you have dialed in your tables. Power enrichment controls your fuel enrichment for more power once you meet certain requirements to enter it.
In most cases people zero out the rpm, and kpa requirements and solely base their calibration on TPS percent. So if you set your TPS at 50 % throttle depressing or so, PE will kick in and the truck will be fed the correct amount of fuel to create the most power.
Once you calibrate that (which you should have with a wideband) but if you actually dialed in both MAF and VE tables correctly with STFT-LTFT data near at zero then you can somewhat approach PE since your fuel pressure and injectors are stock. you would want to aim for 1.14 or so in the power enrichment multiplier. divide 14.67 by 1.14 and that will give you your AFR under PE.
SD is speed density and in short it is the way a pcm determines how much air is going into the engine with your MAF off. It uses air temperature sensor and a pressure sensor to determine the density of the air and how much air is going in.
Spark tables should be approached at the end and it is pretty difficult to dial in without a reference since you wont know how much power you are putting down. But in short, you can advance timing across the spectrum (BY SMALL AMOUNTS like 2 DEGREES) and LOG knock retard, ALSO zero out burst knock retard in your spark advance section. Burst knock retard is the way a pcm retards timing on an assumption that too much air is going into the cylinder and retards the timing even if no knock is present which hurts performance in non boost applications. So zero that out to be honest and then LOG knock retard like i said, everytime you see knock retard, go to your respective low octane table in this case since you set the MAF to fail, and reduce the degrees that it is commanding in the log. So if you see under the knock retard histogram a number 2 in the 80 kpa section in 1300 rpm, then go to your low octane table which should have high octane values that you copied into, and reduce it by 2 degrees in the 80 kpa section under 1300 rpms.
Once you have advanced the most without any knock retard that should be the limit and to be honest, that will be the limit of the engine unless mechanical components are added to improve airflow. Tuning the transmission is pretty self explanatory if you dig through the tables but can try to help if you have questions
I have about 1 week with HPtuners but tuned my toyota supra with an AEM so all this is not so alien to me.
I try to help out because no one in HPtuners wants to help me out with their software and their fancy terminology. This forum has quickly answered my hptuners questions and want to help out in return.
Have fun
Last edited by subeone; 04-29-2013 at 12:08 AM.
#10
Ok I have gotten one copy paste special multiply by % ( my STFT to the main VE table) written to my PCM, my MAF is at 0 htz and the 101 102 and 103 are on the MIL on 1st Error. My truck now runs ok but on very low RPM like on take off from redlight or reverse it will studder/stumble/surge or shut off and a coupple of times it "backfired" through the intake?
Im going to keep going at it or am I risking messing something up?
Im going to keep going at it or am I risking messing something up?