02Vortech

iTrader: (4)

i want to buy a preassembled one-


i just need 2 know-

1.) do i need to buy all new sensors?
2.) where can i find a wiring diagram of my truck so that i can rewire the entire truck for M.S.
3.)Can i order a completely built kit with a 4-bar map sensor- on diyautotune.com i think i have to buy a 4-bar sensor and the put in seperatly-
4.) Should i buy there relay board?
5.) I can just reuse my TPS, Coolant, and Air temperature sensors correct-
6.) ALSO DOES MEGASQUIRT USE A MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR OR IS IT SPEED DENSITY?

And this one is for parish or anyone who is running a M.S. how bad is the install really- all you do is tear out the fuel side of the wiring harness and leave all the accossories correct. and rewire the ignition side as well- or is there alot more involved.

duwem

iTrader: (1)

I have helped with 2 of these installs (1992 honda F2 Bike engine, 1989 VW Fox)
first, the megasquirt websites are fulllll of information.

They use GM sensors for most of there stuff, so you should be able to use them over.
They use MAP, not sure if MAF is compatable
The relay board is nice, you could possibly use yoru stock setup, lots and lots of wiring to do with that though
Ebay has complete kits and so does dyiautotune (thats where ours came from)
I dont even wana think about the amount of wiring you would have to cut/sodder/splace/ remake, Are you sure that HPturners or mail-order wouldnt work, that would be infinitely simplier.

parish8

iTrader: (6)

my squirt just does fuel, nitrous and fans. it was prety easy to wire up and make work. to do a complete car from scratch might be a lot or work.

for the most part i used new sensors and kept the old sensors hooked to he stock comptuer. you can tap the stock tps. if you dont need to keep the stock sensors hooked to the old pcm then you can probably reuse them but if you still need those hooked up you wont want to double tap them. just get another set of sensors. they are only about $10 each.

a 4bar map is good to about 45psi. how much boost are you looking to run? the higher the limit of the sensor the less resolution you will have thruout the scale. it might not make any diference but it might make it harder to tune.

02Vortech

iTrader: (4)

im going to a complete 4.3L non bs set-up- so my OBD II **** aint gonna work- nonbs 4.3L blocks are much much much more strong -- i was just wondering about a maf-

so is there more wiring involved in using stock relay set-up or the megasquirt relay set-up





i might beable to just piggy back even with the whole new motor- does the megasquirt keep track of the camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor? if so then problem solved-


this motor aint no 408- just got 262c.i. to work with- i will prolly be up around 30psi to hit 650+whp ------ so maybe a 3.5 bar map sensor- im building the block to handle 800+whp so i just wanna make everything that capable because i get gready sometimes

vanillagorilla

iTrader: (1)

Geez...800whp from a 4.3? 232bhp/L, that's almost like a F1 car.

02Vortech

iTrader: (4)

bwaahahah- some of the sy/ty guys have made over 1000hp from a 4.3L

parish8

iTrader: (6)

i thought when they were in their turbo haydays they were over 1000hp per L

v8bug

I have done a megasquirt II on my 283 sbc, controls both timing and fuel.
I am going to be intsalling a 5.3l this winter, I will have the megasquirt do fuel only, and msd box do ignition. Controling the spark is alot of work and for what I will be doing the msd should be fine. As for a wiring harness, I doubt you could just repin your old harness. The way I am going to do it is just use the plug ends from the old harness and make the rest myself. Relay box is a good idea.

02Vortech

iTrader: (4)

well looks like im gonna have to rewire the whole truck FTL- but it will be worth it

02Vortech

iTrader: (4)

man i have been doing tons of reading------ im thinking a 5.3L swap will be much easier-

5.3L- LS6 heads, nice mild turbo cam, forged pistons/rods, total seal rings, 76mm turbo, th400 transmission-


simple, easy, cost effective, more power, easier to drive