It really sounds like a bad battery to me. Hmm, is your negative battery cable connected to the engine block or the frame?

You could run by Autozone and let them hook up to that battery with their $800 load tester. It would be the fastest way to find out if you have a dead cell.

Its too the block.. I will mess with it maybe tomorrow evening..

the thing that throws me off is even with my charger hooked up on a 225amp cranking charge it still does it.. I gotta get whatever it is fixed though its driving me nuts

Messed with it alittle last night and tonite.. the ground wire was alittle corroded behing the rubber/plastic boot that goes on where it connected to the battery cleaned that up and swapped batteries and still no dice. It still does it. Will turn over once or twice just fine then slow down turning over till it starts.. I don't know what the hell it could be

There's only 4 parts in the entire process. The starter, the battery, and 2 battery cables.

The fact that it's cranking at all, tells us that it must be one of these items, or a poor connection within this list of items.

You said swapped batteries. Was it a new or used battery? Just curious there.

You may have too much resistance in one of the battery cables, if you are seeing visible corrosion at the terminal. If the copper strands are corroding & turning green, it's time for a new cable.

Lastly, I can tell you that I see a ton of starting problems that are caused by loose connections at the battery. You may think it's tight enough when you bolt it down with your wrench, but follow that up by grabbing the cables near the battery, and see if the cable moves when you pull on the cable. If it's tight enough, it shouldn't move at all.

Do you have headers, and are they really close to the starter?

I swapped a used battery off my work truck on it and it hasn't ever had a problem and I drove it prolly 300 miles today so its fully charged. I'm not sure as too how long the corrosion has been on the battery cable it was under the plastic boot and I think that might have been the first time I've taken it off..

I do have headers and they have been on the truck for probly 3 years and never given me any problems.

Maybe I could try another ground cable and see what that does if I can find one since it was the only cable with any corrosion.

The battery cables are tight not able to move them at all..

Its just wierd to me that this problem just randomly started out of the blue.. I really do appreciate the help!

I would get the older style load tester. The one that has a coil inside that heats up (I have always liked those better). I would load test the battery. Then I would run a load test at a ground, and the positive cable at the starter. If the problem doesn't show up after a few seconds like when it is starting, then it is something mechanical. Off the top of my head it could be the starter or a flexplate, or the way it engages into the flexplate. If the problem is just like when you are cranking, then it is an electrical connection. I would trace it back to the battery with several tests until you find the connection that is causing your problem.

Is there anything with the engine that is really odd like real high compression, or a supercharger without a bypass valve?

Not really its somewhere between 10.8-11to1 compression.. No supercharger or any sort of f/i.. It cranks just fine once its warmed up and nothing else seems abnormal runs like a champ and doesn't have any other issues... Just annoying as hell to crank when its cold and sounds like a pos

It only does it when cold though is what blows my mind..

Needs more current flow when temps are colder. When batteries get colder, they don't have as much energy.

......maybe your engine is seizing up.



Check to see if you have a header really close or touching the starter. If it is, it could be cooking the starter. They don't like that stuff.