Zick

iTrader: (18)

Ok, so about a week ago I spent most of the day tuning in my STFT's because they were way out of whack with the new motor. Got them real close as I could.

Then I re-enabled my LTFTs and drove for a week. Put on about 300 miles. Got out today and did some logging. My LTFT's look too perfect except for the high end is just a little off but not bad.

LTFT

Here are my STFT, now they are off slighty.

STFT


Does anyone think the LTFT look too good for some reason?
Besides knocking down the -3 & -4 LTFTs a couples points, does anyone have any suggestions as to where I should go next?

Oh and I'm getting some knock (4* & 3*) around 3.2-4.4, .64-.68
It may be because I'm now only running 87 octane verses the 89 I was running before, not sure on that one.
Knock

Zick

iTrader: (18)

I haven't actually done the LTFT tuning part yet, just cause they seem good as they are. BTW I'm using the instructions that 02SierraZ71 wrote up.

02sierraz71_5.3

iTrader: (2)

keep driving it and adjusting are you running a maf or is this in SD everything is looking good and starting to line up I like to see things start to form patterns it means you can narrow **** down and know what part of your table is off. About the kr it is becuase of the 87 octane put in 93 and it will go away or pull the timing from your low octance table.

Your very close and if you want to tweak it more you might want to start cutting the amounts you correct in half, so if it says -4 use -2 so you dont over shoot, you will never get everything to 0.

JERRY2500

LTFT and STFT should zero out on the high end

Zick

iTrader: (18)

I'm running in SD mode right now still. I thought that to tune LTFT's you have to still be in SD?
Yeah after this tank, I'm gonna throw in some 93 and see if that gets rid of the knock.

I was going to do exactly that, just cut them in half so I don't go too far.

Thanks

Zick

iTrader: (18)

Ok, so now I'm really confused.
Which way should it be and why are ours completly opposite?

02sierraz71_5.3

iTrader: (2)

when you go wot you want all trims to be 0, in a perfect world all trims regardless of open/closed loop would be 0. I would just keep tweaking it think about your ve table then imagine your lt trims overlaying the ve table. See how the ve table wants to tilt. I like to see it running richer down low because it means your giving more throttle and the engine is more prone to detonation/ under more load more fuel will help reduce the chance of kr and help with added timing in those areas. I would drive around with those settings just like they are for a couple of days to make sure they dont stray far, also want to make sure trims are 0 when wot in pe mode.

then turn on the maf and tune it then your done with trim tuning. Those trims look right in line

Zick

iTrader: (18)

So if the LTFT's stay like this after a few days, I should probably just leave them alone, except for the -3,-4's I'll tweak a little.

If they stay good, I should be able to re-enable my MAF & PE correct?
For tuning the MAF, should I turn on PE mode or not?

02sierraz71_5.3

iTrader: (2)

the trims starting at around 3200 rpm and up 95-105 g/cyl should be 0 you are gonna hit those cells when you go wot I think thats what jerry was talking about. The closer you get those wot cells to 0 the easier it will be to dial in PE fueling. Try and get some values above 4k rpms put her in second and pulse the throttle, dont do this with anything but 93 and I would pull timing.

youve gotten the big part of the ve table now for the wot part of the ve

JERRY2500

That screen shot was before i finished tuning. now its all -1's and 0's. I need to find my latest log. noticed the TQ 541 ft/lbs. now its around 560 ft/lb.s