I posted this on HP Tuners forum last night with no response yet. I just got my engine running yesterday and I'm having severe low speed problems, you know, one foot on the brake and one foot on the gas to keep it from stalling. I was hoping to get some quicker advise, the truck will be parked until I can see the wide band again.

Any ideas?

 

no, but for those of us not familiar or forgetful of your setup....

Injectors, OS?

 

Did you follow the link? My question is how do I figure out why I can't see my wide band or fuel pressure gauge, the two things that are connected to the EIO in my Tuner's cable. I still see all of the factory sensors.

 

I put new rings, bearings, cam and lifters, oil pump and gaskets. The cam went from a 222-224 .556 .557 or so at 115 lsa, to now 230 236 .56x .56x at 115 lsa. It used to idle at maybe 51 kPa, and now it might be as high as 55 kPa, it is hard to keep it running long enough to tell. I have about a half-hour on the road break in time. My point is that I don't want to do anything without a wide band.

 

I found a broken ground wire under the hood, I think it was for my wide band controller.

Anyway, that fixed it.

 

Making any progress Mike? I just finished putting my new cam in today, but it will be awhile before I drive it do to the salt on the roads. It runs though, did some idle tuning on it and I am at about 53kpa and 14" vacuum.

 

It sounds like we are nose to nose in our race to get our idle tuned. I just did my first warmup log after doing krambo's idle tuning 101. Now it stays running, yesterday it acted like it had a big, lumpy cam. The only thing that I noticed wrong now is that it is idling at 900-975 rpm, and I have it set for 725. Mine, too, idles at about 53 kPa. Before I put in the idle 101 tune, I opened the throttle blade 3%, and reset TPS to 0%. Post tune, the IAC is around 154, same as it was pre-tune. The AFR is between -1% and +1%. ECT just got up to 171º, that is normal operating temp.

Any input as to why the high idle?

Water your cam specs again?

 

I had too much timing around idle, reducing it back to where it was before I bumped it up fixed the idle speed.
I raised the timing before idle tune 101 to try and keep it running, from 22º to 28º. It was raised to 22º with my last cam.
It's hard to believe that 8º more intake duration and 12º more exhaust duration made such a big difference in the idle tuning.
So far the cam seems good, pulling harder in the midrange, and zingier (that's a word) on top.

 

What is the deal with IAC. I see in my scan once its at temp that the IAC Desired is 94 and the IAC Position is 310 What does this mean? In park if I blip the throttle mine will die, where should I start with that? I did RAF table, idle timing is 22, afr is 14.6-15.2

Oh ya, Mike its a 216/227 114.5lsa

Wait, I have DBW throttle so I dont have IAC.... WTF?

 

The first thing that I'm going to change tomorrow is the adaptive idle rpm minimum ECT. Stock is 176º, so is mine. My engine usually runs about 171º with a 160º thermostat. I haven't read about this anywhere, but it seems important to me. I am going to change it to 160º.

I'll let you know if this helps with my same as yours throttle blipping killing problem.