Whippled 496

iTrader: (4)

I currently have my LC-1 set up to plug into my cigarette lighter. I get in the truck, plug it in until the LED stops blinking then start the truck. Question is, how many of you running the LC-1 do the warm up before starting the truck? Would it be okay to just plug it in and start right up? I want to hard wire the LC-1 in, but i would rather do it so it just comes on at ignition rather than wiring it to a switch that i need to flip on 10 seconds before starting the truck. Are other widebands (LM-1, PLX, AEM, FAST, JET) all like this too, where they need to be pre warmed before starting the truck? Kind of a pain and looks a little ghetto, i would much rather hide it out of the way if i can.

dewmanshu

iTrader: (4)

My JET is start right up. I know nothing about the LC-1, but sounds pretty stupid, I mean the heaters in them get hot pretty quick.

Whippled 496

iTrader: (4)

Can you reply faster next time? I have been waiting for like 47 seconds...its rediculous!! LMAO

Thanks Dewy, i think i will just hard wire it in and forget about it. I never take it out anyway. I was considering an upgrade to a JET or PLX but i think i will wait a little while. Does your JET fluxuate a lot when logging? Mine bounces around from like 14.17 - 14.70, sometimes a little less, sometimes a little more. Latency was set for 1/6 second when i checked...maybe i will try instant or one of the other options. I think i have instant, 1/3, 1/6, and 1/12.

dewmanshu

iTrader: (4)

How's that...15 minutes that time?

Nope mine does not fluctuate like most people's that I here about. In closed loop it will fluctuate a tad. I can't remember what mine is set on, I think I chose the mid rate.

Whippled 496

iTrader: (4)

Can you link me, or give me a model # to google of what you have? Do you like it, how much fluxuation do you see in yours? Can you by the DynoJet without the gauge and stuff as i just need it for EFILive? I hate the fluxuation mine gives me....its a pain sometimes. Maybe I will upgrade soon, the LC-1 seems to be the low budget of widebands.....works okay...but i am looking for something a little more reliable/stable.

mcfarlnd

iTrader: (15)

i have the lc-1 and it doesnt fluctuate like that but, i have heard using the cig lighter isnt the best way to hook it up. mine is hard wired and has been for over a year without a switch and it works fine. i know you have efi live but, this might be a little information for ya http://http://www.hptuners.com/forum...ad.php?t=11018

Whippled2dr

iTrader: (4)

I had mine wired through the cig lighter and it gave me problems. Now I have it hard wired and using a relay that is triggered with acc (so its not hot when the engine cranks). I also updated the LC-1 firmware to ver 1.10 and haven't had a problem since. I would always get Error 8 with mine. I don't know whether it was the rewire or the update in the firmware but I'm very happy with my LC-1 now.

dewmanshu

iTrader: (4)

Do what these guys in your thread say first. Update the firmwares and hard wire it in. Don't waste money on a new unit just yet. Make sure you share the ground wire that you OBDII plug has. I posted a OBDII wiring diagram in GMtuning section somewhere.

here..
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=373444

oldred95

I was told that the wideband needs to be powered by a keyed power source but it also needs to go dead when in the crank position because of the potential system voltage spike caused when the starter disengages. I believe its when the battery has a dead cell that it can no longer absorb the spike completely and the system gets a wake up call. I checked my fuse block (granted mines a 95) and the rear wiper fuse slot is open and has the correct power needed. I don't see any problem with hard wiring one in at all in fact thats how I'm doing it. The stock narrow band heated 02 sensors obviously have heaters in them as well. Even with my original 190k mile sensor if I turn the key on and wait 30 seconds to a minute depending on the ambient air temp I go into closed loop within seconds of startup. If I just jump in and go it takes about the same amount of time to go into closed loop. From what I've read the wideband sensors respond the exact same way. They have to be heated either by the sensors heater or by exhaust heat along with the heater before they start reading the exhaust.

Whippled 496

iTrader: (4)

Thanks guys. I'll give this stuff a whirl tomorrow. Supposed to be raining so it will give me something to do in the garage.