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LC1 wideband problem

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Old 02-05-2012 | 02:24 AM
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To me your problem looks like a ground issue..
Old 02-05-2012 | 02:43 AM
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Its not a ground issue because I have checked it several times. I even put a meter on the ground and to the negative terminal on the battery and found next to nothing for resistance. I don't know how I am having such bad luck. But I get the same results with three different sensors on two vehicles now. I am done with Innovate, this is just ridiculous.
Old 02-05-2012 | 02:45 AM
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Yeah its definatly not working for you at all. Try something else and see how it goes
Old 02-05-2012 | 10:37 PM
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I gave them at call at 714-372-5910 (which I'm sure you did the same), and I was essentially an *** the first go-round due to frustration. I can't remember the name of the guy I talked to on the phone, but I just asked for him when in need of replacement and there really wasn't much argument. I shipped it off, and had a replacement within the business week. But now, I won't mess with them. PLX or AEM would be my only choices--actually bought an AEM but never used it. No complaints on the PLX, whatsoever.
Old 02-06-2012 | 03:18 PM
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x2 on the PLX, no problems
Old 02-06-2012 | 03:32 PM
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I submitted an RMA request for the one still within the warranty period. They charge a $45 fee to repair widebands outside, so I may send in the other one for repair.
Old 04-30-2012 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by smokeshow
Tried my standalone LC1 on another car and it was doing the same thing. I am not buying Innovate **** any more, considering two have died...probably go with AEM this time. Any suggestions otherwise?



What did you do to get them replaced? They were honestly douchebags on the phone, both dudes I talked to. I wouldn't expect them to want to help much in regards to replacing my broken stuff, considering how those conversations went.
Originally Posted by smokeshow
Tried my standalone LC1 on another car and it was doing the same thing. I am not buying Innovate **** any more, considering two have died...probably go with AEM this time. Any suggestions otherwise?



What did you do to get them replaced? They were honestly douchebags on the phone, both dudes I talked to. I wouldn't expect them to want to help much in regards to replacing my broken stuff, considering how those conversations went.
Just got off the phone with them. Jake you weren't joking. What a ******* *******. I was calling to see if I had the LC1 and Gauge hooked up correctly before i turned power on. I started to tell him how it was hooked up. Here is how the conversation went.

Me "Ok I just wanted to confirm if I hooked up my LC1 and gauge correctly. I think the gauge I have is the db gauge, it is the blue digital 2 1/16" gauge."
Him "you don't know what gauge you have? how can I help you if you don't tell me what gauge you have?"
Me "I was under the impression you guys sold only one blue/red lighted 2 1/16" gauge. I believe it to be the db gauge. sorry I will get that for you"
Him "don't look for it, you have the DB gauge. How is it hooked up?"
Me "this is how it is hooked up: I have the blue and white wire from the LC1 and the"

He interupts me

Him "Hooked up to what? You called me, how can I help you if you don't tell me what you hooked the blue and white wire to?
Me "uh well I wasn't exactly finished with my statement. Anyway, they are hooked up to a ground. I also have the yellow and black wires from the gauge hooked up to this location and"

He interupts me again

Him "What is this location? I need to know the location otherwise I can't help you

Me "again I wasn't finished with my statement. the location I am reffering to is to the ground. I also have one side of the led and push button hooked up to this same location. All of the grounds are soldered together to the same lug boted to a thick piece of metal underneath the dash.


Me "I have the power from the LC1 and the power from the gauge hooked up to the same 12v ignition location. THis is a 12v ignition power source for aftermarket installations of accessories that is in place from the factory.

Him: "What does that mean? what 12v ignition source do you have it hooked up to?
Me: "Do you want the exact connector name and pin and the make/model/year of my vehicle?"

Him "No it's hooked up correct. Have a nice day"

I didn't even talk to him about the analog outs at this point but apparently it was hooked up correctly.

His tone of voice was very similar to that of a bitchy Hollywood *****. He had a lot of attitude like he was going through his menstrual cycle. I can't stand like this. They act all tough over the phone but if you talked to them in person this wouldn't be the case. Anyway, just confirming Jake's experience with them was true. So this is what Innovate customers can expect to experience. Next time I will go with another manufacturer who doesn't have employee's with emotional problems working in the customer service department.


On another note my gauge read 7.4 when it was warming up. Then it went to 19.1. The gauge stayed at 19.1 at idle, city driving and WOT. Anybody know what could be the issue here?

Jake-Is this the LC1 you were having problems with?
Old 04-30-2012 | 05:41 PM
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Lol, yep thats pretty much how my conversation went. Sounds like a couple people who just hate their job. Both of my widebands were giving me ****. They had similar problems but not exactly the same, but that one I bought in August so it was still within its 6 month warranty period. I sent it back for repair and they got it back to me in a few weeks. I believe I included the invoice stating that they fixed it.
Old 04-30-2012 | 07:30 PM
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Bass-turds I looked over the warranty paper you did include but it didn't state what it was for other than "/RMA". I thought that was for the gauge. Anyway, I checked the Innovate website and tried to calibrate the lc1 according to the online LC1 manual, which has a different sequence of setup than the instructions provided with the kit, and I still can't get the gauge to work. It still gives me the 7.4 on sensor warmup and the 19.1 after warmup readings.

I get these readings when the engine is off and when the engine is running.

On step 5 of their online instructions, the sequence seems to be a bit vague and unclear.
When "switching 12v ignition power on" is the engine supposed to be on or just the ign powered? Is the sensor is bad. Do I have to hook the lc1 up to my laptop via the program cable? Thoughts?

Last edited by chris092183; 04-30-2012 at 07:33 PM. Reason: repost
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