shupe

iTrader: (7)

CEL illuminated yesterday on the way home. Power seemed to be low. Used the aeroforce scan gauge to read the code P1133. Did some searching found P1133 to be H02S Insufficient Switching Sensor 1. I would like to do some trouble shooting before I start replacing stuff.

What is a good way to monitor this with the aeroforce?

I cleared the code this morning. Was comparing short trim bank 1 and 2, between traffic and trying to watch those numbers it was two fast. Toggled over to long trim bank 1 and 2. Noticed bank 1 and bank 2 were off significantly, occasionally bank 1 would read 0.0, while bank 2 was between 8 and 14. With no throttle input (at idle or coasting to a stop) the number would vary between 1.5 and 3.

Where would you guys recommend looking or troubleshooting to verify the HO2S is at fault needing replacement?.

Thanks in advance.

shupe

iTrader: (7)

Now I'm receiving a P1133 and a P1153. Bank 1 and 2 are now affected.

While searching (lot of good info over on tech) sounds as though it could be either a dirty MAF or faulty.

Wondering if the mass airflow sensor could cause some this issue. Find it hard to believe that within a few days both sensors are having troubles.

Will clean tonight the MAF sensor tonight.

Any good way to test sensor?

Just curious but will the truck run with this sensor unplugged.

dewmanshu

iTrader: (4)

you put headers on? what's your mods? what have you done recently?

shupe

iTrader: (7)

Haven't done anything recently. Installed pacesetter longtubes and a tb tc a few months ago. Still need to get a retune from Westers. Hopefully get that request in next week.


Currently running mods are CAI, Longtubes, trail blazer tc, efans, Westers, seems like more but guess that it.

dewmanshu

iTrader: (4)

do a little more research on those codes with the long tubes. They are pretty common. In a nut shell what's happening is they aren't getting hot enough, causing your switching points to be "lazier" and out of the range described in your tune. You can have your tuner kill the codes, or put rear vette sensors in and tighten up the range in the switching tables, or wrap or coat your headers, or did I mention kill the codes? Everybody has different results fww. SOme people goto long tubes and never have issues.

shupe

iTrader: (7)

dewmanshu: read about that using the vette sensors or disabling the codes definately sounds like an idea. Especially since I need to get the current one updated.

Truck is running poorly though. This thing has no power stumbles like crazy at low rpm. Will having this code casuse the truck to run in some type of reduced power mode?

Are the rear 02 sensors the same as the front sensors? Since the rears are no longer being used due to the lack of factory y-pipe, could I swap them?

dewmanshu

iTrader: (4)

i am not sure about loss of power, or at least enough to be VERY noticable. The rears have different plugs I do believe. How many miles are on your stock o2's? Ask your tuner about the problems, especially stumbling.

shupe

iTrader: (7)

Noticed yesterday that when the P1133 and P1153 codes are set the short trim b1, b2 and long trim b1, b2 numbers go from constantly changing to 0 and dont change. During one trip the numbers began changing again.

From what i've been reading the short trim b1, b2 change very rapidly bouning above 0 (lean) to below 0 (rich) constantly trying to get the fuel mixture correct.

Does this sound as though the O2S are bad?

If I am to replace with the vette O2S do I need to change the plugs. As I have a straight 4 wire plug on the front connections. All pictures I've seen are similar to the rear plugs on my truck the 4 wire square connection?

If thats the case would I be better off removing the plugs off the rear O2S harness and moving them to the front harness? Or have you guys been rewiring the sensor itself?

Rhino79

iTrader: (7)

Those codes are setting you into full time open loop probably, which would leave the trims flatlined at 0. I'd replace the o2's, its a very common problem with longtubes, especially on the f-bodies, I see it a lot.

shupe

iTrader: (7)

Fixed the problem. Spliced the square connector from the rear 02's to the front. Installed the rear sensors I'd taken out when the ORY was installed. Presto no more codes for today anyway.

Did notice that the trims stay at 0 for the first minute / minute and half or so after I start it up. Is this normal?