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PLX wideband inconsistent readings?

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Old 01-26-2011, 10:58 AM
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Default PLX wideband inconsistent readings?

I have a plx wideband with the dm5 gauge and it seems to be all over the place. While cruising its anywhere between 14-15 but it can spike between rich and lean often. Then when i go into boost it goes down to rich and then fluctuates between 10-13. When i run it at the track it pegs at 10ish and stays there like it freezes so even when i finish the run and head back to the staging lanes it stays at 10ish for a few seconds just cruising back.

Anyone else have this issue? Seems like a big waste of 200$ since it is not accurate. The sensor is located on the downpipe. My friend is having the same issue even after replacing his sensor.

My truck was tuned on a dyno and the shop used their wideband so i know its tuned for 11.5 at wot.

I let it go to AIR before starting the truck but is there anyway to calibrate it or something?
Old 01-26-2011, 11:16 AM
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You will need lots of street tuning with turbo cause it hits cells you will never see on dyno. I've been working on mine for weeks and has gotten way better. The problem is even with a Badass tuner there is only so much time they can spend on your truck.
Old 01-26-2011, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by black04
I have a plx wideband with the dm5 gauge and it seems to be all over the place. While cruising its anywhere between 14-15 but it can spike between rich and lean often. Then when i go into boost it goes down to rich and then fluctuates between 10-13. When i run it at the track it pegs at 10ish and stays there like it freezes so even when i finish the run and head back to the staging lanes it stays at 10ish for a few seconds just cruising back.

Anyone else have this issue? Seems like a big waste of 200$ since it is not accurate. The sensor is located on the downpipe. My friend is having the same issue even after replacing his sensor.

My truck was tuned on a dyno and the shop used their wideband so i know its tuned for 11.5 at wot.

I let it go to AIR before starting the truck but is there anyway to calibrate it or something?
The cruising afr sounds about right if your tune is setup for closed loop operation. Even if it is in open loop all the time it will still fluctuate. If all they did was a dyno tune with a non-load bearing dyno i bet they did not tune the cruise area very well.


About the wot stuff. Once agian without street tuning more than likely they hit different areas of the tables. I am firm believer in street tuning versus dyno tuning. Reason being this way you tune the cells that your actually gonna hit and it is tuned for how you drive. The over rich condition after the run is also tuneable and is probably ok being rich after you let off.
Old 01-26-2011, 12:26 PM
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Yes it was tuned on a dynojet so that makes sense. It was street tuned after for driveability but i dont think he used my wideband.
Old 01-26-2011, 12:57 PM
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I have a plx in mine, its pretty close the afm1000 on the dyno. I think your tune needs work.
Old 01-26-2011, 03:13 PM
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hmm maybe thats why my truck is slow as hell and i get shitty gas mileage

But my friend is having the exact same issue on his NA motor that was tuned by someone else

And we are tuned by probably some of the most respectable tuners in our areas.
Old 01-26-2011, 03:16 PM
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Btw it was the exact same when it was supercharged and also the same with turbo.
Old 01-27-2011, 06:07 PM
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Ever since I started tuning (2003 or so) PLX has always has a bad rep for accuracy. Guess much hasnt changed.

I have never figured out how people "tune" in less than an hour and on a dynojet. It took me 2 weeks to build my VE table for my old turbo setup and it was dead nuts. I had to do some funky stuff to hit some cells on the VE table.

I had a LC1 with my turbo setup and it was dead accurate.
Old 01-27-2011, 07:58 PM
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I use a plx and I've never had any problems. I have replaced the sensor 2 times in about 5 years.
Old 01-27-2011, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Rhino79
I use a plx and I've never had any problems. I have replaced the sensor 2 times in about 5 years.
Why not a lc1 with the serial connection, i know you use EFI live...


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