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"Wideband O2's" Which one?

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Old 01-29-2007, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by truckmann
Well that's the kind of info I was looking to see here. Sorry to hear the AEM isn't working out I guess with that info I am definitely leaning toward the PLX unit until someone has something bad to say about it..
Right on truckmann...This was exactly the type of informative information I was looking for with this post. Thank you guys! Keep it coming!
Old 01-29-2007, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by TahoeSS01
TurboJohn
yes the 02 sensors are VW
Most of the WB o2 have a analog out that you can use on round guages like aeroforce or dynotune.

Like 1 Slow said -calibration and the access to do it at will Is the answer.

Sometimes the lack money spent could give you what you may not need-a engine !
Thanks for the info! This helps me out.
Old 01-29-2007, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by truckmann
FWIW here is what PLX says about calibration with the unit they sell

No Sensor Calibration Required:
Using a PLX wideband controller is extremely simple and hassle free. Simply install the oxygen sensor in the vehicles’ down pipe and power up the product. You’re ready to start measuring your precise air/fuel ratio immediately. Unlike other products on the market, frequent free air sensor calibration is unnecessary with “PLX Critical Response Technology.”

Manual free air sensor calibration is often required in other wideband products primarily to account for reference voltage deviations in its internal electronics. As mentioned earlier, the wideband sensor is extremely sensitive to reference voltages as little as 50 mV and Ip current as little as 1 mA can influence the measurement accuracy significantly. In order to save on manufacturing and quality control costs, these other wideband controllers pass the burdon of fine tuning their electronics to the end user. All PLX wideband products go through an extensive quality control procedure before they are shipped. Electrical tolerances and internal reference voltages are kept extremely tight to ensure excellent performance and accuracy. Products which do not pass quality control are sent back to manufacturing for engineering analysis and the procedure is repeated.

In addition, some wideband controllers which require calibration to free air may introduce unwanted errors. A calibration procedure requires a known oxygen concentration to reference the wideband controller. “Ideal free air” is an oxygen concentration at sea level (0 elevation), and 25 Deg C. If a wideband controller is calibrated to free air outside of “ideal free air” conditions, the controller will improperly reference the oxygen concentration. The oxygen concentration of air at high elevation is less than the oxygen concentration at sea level. To obtain accurate readings, the user must expose the oxygen sensor to free air at 0 elevation and an ambient temperature of 25 Deg C. This proves to be an impractical procedure and greatly complicates the usability of the product. PLX Devices wideband products do not require sensor calibration and come pre calibrated to “ideal free air” from a controlled laboratory environment.
Very interesting reading. I was not even looking at this brand. I am going to now though.
Old 01-29-2007, 08:32 PM
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I had an LC-1 go out on me. Innovate customer service and warranty was very cool to say the least. They sent me a replacement and this time I was much more maticulous about wiring it up. The first one I was using the cigarette plug for power and ground. Innovate stresses to ground all ground wires to engine ground. System ground and analog grounds should be ground to the same point and heater ground to a seperate point nearby. They claim the ground offset is what burns out the analog outputs. I was skeptical of this but my LC-1 and XD-16 have been working fine since I wired them that way. My first one went out in a matter of two weeks, only using it to log data, not using it continuously.

Turbo gibbs, I had a similar problem w/ my LC-1. I programmed it to output 2.5v constant so HPTuners would see 14.0 AFR. Then before I started scanninig I opened a user defined LC-1 PID using the same equation HPtuners uses for the LC-1. If you have the cusom PID box open before you start scanning you can tweak the numbers in the equation in real time until HPTuners reads 14.0v. The difference was created by the ground offset. Once my equation was set I reprogrammed the analog outputs to 0-5v and 10-18 AFR.

I don't know any way to correct this if the analog outputs are not programmable.
Old 01-29-2007, 08:36 PM
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PLX Devices wideband products do not require sensor calibration and come pre calibrated to “ideal free air” from a controlled laboratory environment.
The question then is what happens when the sensor is subjected to rich mixtures from our mods and tunes and other elements which will slow the sensor readings down.
Leaded race fuel,coolant,oil,some additives,ect
Remember reading "sensor safe" on silicone RTV and some FI cleaners?

The questions I would ask-
What will let you know if the sensor resistor is bad (except bad readings)?
Will you know what the bad readings are when it happens?

May not be much but if on the lean side -you know
I guess it just matters on how accurate you want it
Will only be that critical in high boost and N2O apps with extreme driving.
With a daliy driver and minor mods your OK.

And as Blown3Qtr said the grounds and power hook ups are the main reason for sensor failure next to contamination.
Old 01-29-2007, 09:40 PM
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So what if you did this... Buy the AEM, since it's easy to hookup and everyone says, so far anyway, that it works great, and buy an extra sensor for it. When you first get the kit, and BOTH sensors, hook them both up, test them to see if they read exactly the same or very close and log any differences in readings. Put one sensor to the side, do not use it, except once in a while to verify that the one you have been using is still good. When it gets too far off, buy another new sensor, check it against the one you have been using to test, then put it to the side and use the one you have previously only been using to test, and throw out the bad one.

This logic will only work if the AEM is accurate to start with. If it reads correctly when new, then this method should work (I would think so anyway, just thinking logically here)

So what you think about this method? Opinions, suggestions?
Old 01-30-2007, 01:12 AM
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I didn't say the AEM worked great. Re-read post #17.

The AEM isn't custom configurable. That would be great if it worked correctly. I may try running my AEM and HPT EI grounds to the engine block and see if that helps any. I have to get it running again first though.
Old 01-30-2007, 11:44 PM
  #28  
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Is the LM-1 still the best solution for a non-permanant vehicle to vehicle tuning?
Old 01-31-2007, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by MrXerox
Is the LM-1 still the best solution for a non-permanant vehicle to vehicle tuning?
I have not heard of anyone having problems with them like the LC-1. It's deffinately more portable. I was trying to make my LC-1 portrable w/ the cigarette plug hookup=BAD IDEA.
Old 01-31-2007, 07:39 AM
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I can honestly say that i've never heard of a bad complaint from an LM-1. But yet I haven't bought one.



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