Wire harness rerouting, talk to me..
05-03-2011, 10:28 PM
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Wire harness rerouting, talk to me..
To the guys who have changed up the main harness, yah that nasty looking fukr that is draped over the intake.. How have you guys cleaned that up with out taking the complete harness out, doing it, removing wires.. I am going to be doing a intake swap SOON, would like to get the thing out of the way for a cleaner look. I have no doubt I can do it, but tips or where to split it up and move wires is always a plus..Can it be split up, rerouted, so it is not on the intake?? Pics is a big plus, how you did it.. Thanks
05-04-2011, 01:26 AM
#7
You not gonna be able to do anything without lengthing some if not most of the wires, and there are alot more than 20 something. If your doing it right, a task of this kind is not for the weak. This is one of those projects where half way through you end up saying to yourself "WTF am I doing this for". Also, there is no way in hell your gonna be able to do anything with it while it is still on the truck. Getting it unwrapped on the bench can take a couple of hours at least. I can't imagine fighting that battle on the truck.
I don't mean to discourage you or anyone else, but this can be a very complicated project if your not familiar with wiring.
When doing it right, the most time consuming thing is refitting. I can't tell you how many times I had parts of the harness in and out of my truck trying to get it how I wanted it. Then once you have everything fitted/routed like you want it, you'll have to mark it off some how to wrap it back up. TIP: This part requires a lot of attention. There is nothing more aggrevating than getting it all wrapped up and then put it on the truck only to realize that the wrap job shortened certain areas by just enough not to reach. Unwrap and start all over.
I've gotten a ton of feed back (pm's, phone calls mostly) from the one I did for my truck, and most of the comments are "wow, that looks really easy, there is nothing there". Then I have to explain that it looks like there is nothing there cause it was so complicated. Just the opposite.
On mine, I started at the sensor plug and worked back to the origin (pcm/power source/ground or obd2 port). It worked out fine, but in the future I'll be doing it just the opposite.
After doing mine and building a couple other stand alone units I realized that I can make it a little nicer still if I start at the origin and then terminate at the sensor itself. for example, I'll pin the entire pcm and then route wires to each location and modify wire length at the plug. Make sense? The only problem with doing it this way is that you'll have to buy even more crimp tools/die sets. Also, while it should work without problems, I'm not a big fan of lengthening existing wires. I like one continuous piece from start to finish. It greatly reduces the potential for problems and this is not a place you want to troubleshoot.
Just an FYI, there are several different terminals used throughout the engine/trans harness. I've spend over $1000 just in crimp tools to be able to do these. Then not to mention the cost of 9000 (its not really that many) different color TXL wire, new terminals/pins (several different styles), connectors, and quality heatshrink/expandable sleeving (several different sizes). I hate that split loom corrigated crap that comes from the factory. Its bulky and ugly.
Good luck and let me know if you have any more specific questions or if you want me to help you out with this. It can be a very satisfying project if you take it slow and do it right. The cool thing about redoing the harness is that you can remove some stuff that you don't need depending on the application. That also helps clean it up some.
Here is a picture before harness clean up and picture after. The second picture is the complete wire harness. If anyone wants to see more detailed pictures, check out my build thread in the projects section.
I don't mean to discourage you or anyone else, but this can be a very complicated project if your not familiar with wiring.
When doing it right, the most time consuming thing is refitting. I can't tell you how many times I had parts of the harness in and out of my truck trying to get it how I wanted it. Then once you have everything fitted/routed like you want it, you'll have to mark it off some how to wrap it back up. TIP: This part requires a lot of attention. There is nothing more aggrevating than getting it all wrapped up and then put it on the truck only to realize that the wrap job shortened certain areas by just enough not to reach. Unwrap and start all over.
I've gotten a ton of feed back (pm's, phone calls mostly) from the one I did for my truck, and most of the comments are "wow, that looks really easy, there is nothing there". Then I have to explain that it looks like there is nothing there cause it was so complicated. Just the opposite.
On mine, I started at the sensor plug and worked back to the origin (pcm/power source/ground or obd2 port). It worked out fine, but in the future I'll be doing it just the opposite.
After doing mine and building a couple other stand alone units I realized that I can make it a little nicer still if I start at the origin and then terminate at the sensor itself. for example, I'll pin the entire pcm and then route wires to each location and modify wire length at the plug. Make sense? The only problem with doing it this way is that you'll have to buy even more crimp tools/die sets. Also, while it should work without problems, I'm not a big fan of lengthening existing wires. I like one continuous piece from start to finish. It greatly reduces the potential for problems and this is not a place you want to troubleshoot.
Just an FYI, there are several different terminals used throughout the engine/trans harness. I've spend over $1000 just in crimp tools to be able to do these. Then not to mention the cost of 9000 (its not really that many) different color TXL wire, new terminals/pins (several different styles), connectors, and quality heatshrink/expandable sleeving (several different sizes). I hate that split loom corrigated crap that comes from the factory. Its bulky and ugly.
Good luck and let me know if you have any more specific questions or if you want me to help you out with this. It can be a very satisfying project if you take it slow and do it right. The cool thing about redoing the harness is that you can remove some stuff that you don't need depending on the application. That also helps clean it up some.
Here is a picture before harness clean up and picture after. The second picture is the complete wire harness. If anyone wants to see more detailed pictures, check out my build thread in the projects section.
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